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  1. Past hour
  2. 49- Clutch Release Fork Pull-back Spring

    I have a complete 49 business coupe..... trans,clutch and pressure plate. stanleyteee@aol.com
  3. Today
  4. introduction

    I snaked the exhaust pipe out yesterday and rechecked the pipe connection to its' flange and discovered burn-out area that was not noticed before. Explains noise and air. I go to the muffler shop tomorrow to have a replacement made. I will ask about doubling gaskets up and sealers as that flange is rather rough. Exhaust manifold flange is in great shape. Thanks for the reply! rh
  5. 1954 PLymouth Savoy 4-door

    Yes, I agree with you. I love the car, I just cant keep up with it anymore.
  6. Yesterday
  7. introduction

    An extra gasket might help, or some hi-temp sealer, as you mentioned. Maybe the angle of the two flanges is off.
  8. Last week
  9. introduction

    before this forum closes i have another question. i have a good exhaust leak where the exhaust pipe hooks to manifold. both flanges are clean and i put a new gasket on but i still feel air blown from the connection, and sound. does doubling up the gaskets work? bolts are tight. a sealer between the 2 gaskets ? rodney
  10. Carburetor leaking fuel with carbon fouled plugs

    Some things that could cause some of your problems are the following. Hard starting could be from choke not adjusted correctly, low fuel level in the carb and float level not correctly adjusted. These are just carb issues only but electrical problems can also cause starting problems. If the car sets for any length of time such as more than a few days, fuel will evaporate from the carb and it will take some cranking of engine to get fuel pumped into the carb to the proper level. One fix for this issue is install a electric fuel pump and turn it on prior to start to fill up carb. I do this and after running the electric pump for 15 seconds and pumping the gas pedal, the car starts easy. If your car has sat for a few months, maybe the accelerator pump in the carb has dried up and is not working correctly. It is possible your mechanical fuel pump is not putting out enough fuel. Hope this helps.
  11. Carburetor leaking fuel with carbon fouled plugs

    Should have mentioned the carb had been rebuilt September last year from a pretty reputable guy, would be a pain if that was the case. I'll open it up and see what's going on inside, good to know about Recarbco, thanks for that.
  12. Carburetor leaking fuel with carbon fouled plugs

    A carb overhaul is probably necessary as a first step in fixing the problems. You might buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself, or find a local shop with experience, or send it out. I used an outfit called Recarbco, I think on the West Coast. I haven't checked on them recently. They did all right for me on a '50 and a '53, one car in about 2001 and the other a few years ago. The rebuilt carbs improved the running of both engines.
  13. Good day to all, I am new to this forum and I am looking for some help regarding my '50 Plymouth Special Deluxe. She is unrestored in great condition overall with 70k miles on it. Had some heavy hesitation under acceleration and serious misfiring so recently I replaced the plugs, ignition wire set, distributor cap, rotor and coil, also adjusted the float as to manual recommendations. After about 40 miles of driving over a one month period it now cuts out and having real problems starting and again if i get it going under any real acceleration it is hesitating and misfiring. Quick look underneath and the carb is wet leaking a lot of gas and all the new plugs have heavy deposits of carbon on them(too rich??) Checked the float again and seems ok , it is still the 1 bbl carter installed. Anyone out there can recommend as to where things could be going wrong and where best to start with the diagnosis?? Any help much appreciated!
  14. Earlier
  15. introduction

    the P-23 started ! it was the condenser and bad grounds in the dist. used a new napa condenser. reading a lot of other owner's issues here and on P15 D24 and the HAMB, i traced the problem. engine oil poured out of the oil filter housing top and bottom. fittings loose on oil line and lid not tight. good sign i have oil pressure! ammeter on the pos. side even at low idle. blew out a big mouse nest out of the exhaust pipe and smelled nasty bar-b-q so turned the car off lol i will miss telling my tales on this forum as i think some get a chuckle out of it. will be fun to finally take the car off the blocks this weekend and drive it around the property and test the brakes. a samsonite chair is my front seat as the car is gutted. fun. next spring i plan on cutting out the cancer in the floor pans and welding in new steel. next spring i work on the cooling system and pull the distribution tube. then...put 2 cars better together from the donor parts car. r
  16. 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe sedan Parts car

    I am looking for a trunk floor pan for a 1951 Plymouth. 50 DELUXE
  17. Time to say goodbye....

    This announcement really bummed me out. But I can certainly understand the reasons. Thank you Rich and Steve for keeping it going for as long as you did. Let me also extend my thanks to jd52cranbrook, suntennis, hawkhero, bigadams and all the other members who have me so much helped me with my '52 Cranbrook, Lil Jenny. Knowing that this will be no more let me share this photo from yesterday where our daughter's close friend asked if Lil Jenny could be used for photos for their wedding. Hope our virtual paths again cross, either on the p15-d24 or Plymouth Owners Club Facebook page sites. Better if they cross in the real world though. Best to all. Tony
  18. Time to say goodbye....

    I'm going to miss this site. Each time I had a problem or a question, there was always someone willing to give me assistance with their experience or knowledge. I will miss reading all the various posts.
  19. Time to say goodbye....

    As a newbie, I have tremendously enjoyed being part of this forum. It has given me courage to purchase an abandoned P-23 and bring it back to life. There is so much info still to garnish from the archives. Will all this knowledge disappear or will there be a way to retrieve it in the future? What I enjoyed the most about this forum were that the members were all very nice to each other! rodney
  20. Time to say goodbye....

    Sorry to see you closing up shop. However, just a reminder to your members in case they don't know about P15-D24.com, all Mopar flathead owners are welcome.
  21. Time to say goodbye....

    I started coming here while Bill Ward was running it. Although i don't post a lot I do read many of the posts. Sorry to see you going, however I have also noticed a dramatic drop in posts and the money to run the site is not free. Enjoyed it while it lasted. The Plymouth Owners club site is another I would expect to go dark in the near future.
  22. introduction

    Correction ! Horn relay, my mistake! After cleaning the relay unit I saw markings indicating Horn, ign, bat, grnd. napa does not have a relay so i will reroute. r
  23. introduction

    The P-23 will not start. I have gas, it squirts in the carb. I have new battery, new cables. I put everything back that I removed better than ever. Cleaner than ever. There is no spark from the coil. I am dumbfounded. I switched out coils. I switched out a couple different condensers. I switched coil wires. I removed the dist thinking it was 180 out. At that point I was not thinking correct. The wiring harness in this car is half removed or garbaged from previous owners. I went into my service manual and the Motor's manual to check wiring diagrams and troubleshooting. I am wondering if the light relay sw. went bad where the dist and ign wire junction on the firewall. Anybody have thoughts on this as a possible cause for no spark? Could the ammeter add to this? It was working before. When I bought the car the p.owner had the battery backwards. I immediately switched the cables when i got the car home and saw the ammeter charging +. So, on my way to work tomorrow I will see if Napa has a universal relay switch and condensers. I have garnished the technical archives here and P-15 D-24 to see what others have said about no spark. I am wondering if I can by-pass the relay sw and ammeter to get spark. I do not have test equip and diagnosing wiring has been my weakness all these years. It probably is time to move this subject to another discussion topic. Right? rodney
  24. Time to say goodbye....

    So sorry to hear this news. As a newby here and and the recent purchaser of a P18, I will miss the community and resources this site has provided. Good wishes and good luck, Gerry
  25. Time to say goodbye....

    Going to miss it like a old friend. Best of luck to everyone.
  26. Time to say goodbye....

    After almost ten years since we took over oldplymouths.com from Bill Ward, we have made the difficult decision to shut down the site. Although not an easy decision to make, it was well thought out and based on many factors such as increased costs and reduced site traffic. We value all of the friends we made along the way, and enjoyed all of the pictures and stories shared by our members over the years. Oldplymouths.com will remain online until approximately the end of October. Thanks to our contributing members for keeping the site going all of these years through their generous donations. Special thanks also goes out to jd52cranbrook, who earned the distinction of being both the largest contributor to the site intellectually (most posts) as well as financially (most donations). We will still remain active in the classic car hobby with our 50 and 53 Plymouths. We wish all of our members the best in their Plymouth endeavors and hope to see you out on the road! Best, Oldplymouths.com staff
  27. Heater core 1935

    If you still have the old core a lot of the radiator shops round here could probably fit it out with a new core.
  28. we are going to gasser the 55 2dr. i am pulling out/off the original 1st year polyspherical hemi V8, powerflite, dash mounted wand shifter, radio, rear axle, front suspension from frame out, and maybe the column/steering wheel. also 5 hubcaps, stock radiator, etc.... this car has just under 12K original miles (not a misprint- under twelve thousand original miles) and aside from the master cylinder and tires was all original and complete. it has been sitting for 25 years, so nothing is "perfect" but its all there and in good/decent shape from the stock oilbath aircleaner down. anybody need anything? i AM in hawaii, so shipping may be crazy but i wont charge any extra just actual shipping costs plus whatever we agree on for purchase prices. thank you and aloha !
  29. introduction

    Agreed as I briefly looked at the auto choke section in the manual...and will play w/the heat control valve position. i marked it before installing. I was so disgusted how dirty the engine was after removing the generator and the bracket, I removed the oil stand pipe, dist, and starter and started to scrape yrs of oil/dirt off side off block....carefully covering openings i scraped and wire brushed w/ a drill. i saw some silver paint! cleaned the filler pipe/cap, dist, points look good, new lead wire, and separated the starter to clean later this week. it is filthy. 66 yrs of n.m. grime under the hood. it's what probably preserved the engine compartment from disintegration. r
  30. 1949 Plymouth fluids

    Cooling fluid I use half anti freeze and half distilled water. Engine oil use a good grade of 30 or 40 weight. Gear oil use a 90 weight gear oil. For the steering box I use a super thick oil that is almost like honey and can be found at most auto parts stores. This heavy oil should reduce or prevent leakage out of steering box. If engine has not been run after 12 years, it would be good to remove spark plugs, spray some oil in cylinders and spin the engine over a few time before replacing the plugs and trying to start it.
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