Contributing Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About suntennis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona

Recent Profile Visitors

3,552 profile views
  1. Mopar cars in the 60s used a 6 volt coil but had a 12 volt electric system. For these cars they had a resister about 3 inches long mounted on the fire wall. The output of the resister went to the coil. I would think many auto part stores would still sell these because they would fail over the years. Power to the electric choke as you probably know is only applied when the starter is used. You may not even need a choke due to what I guess is mild climate. Many have found that using a electric fuel pump to prime the carb helps for faster starting especially when the car has set for some time. Nice car.
  2. On the electric choke you should be able to use it with a in-line resister. Many cars in the 60s and later have a resister for the coil wire to step it down from 12 to 6 volts. Pouring gas into the carb is not fuel injection and there is risk of fire when doing it.
  3. The emergency brake handle is different than the shift lever in that there is metal under the plastic. One fix for this handle would be to use JB Weld to form a new handle over the metal then paint to match the steering wheel. Another fix would be to replace the 52 handle assembly with a 51 assembly which has a chrome metal handle.
  4. The adjustments to the shift linkage are fairly simple. One adjustment only is for adjusting the position of the shift lever on the steering column and this is adjusted at the bracket on the shift arm that has a slot in it. The other adjustment is only for shifting the gears in the transmission and it on the rod from the transmission that has a spring at the end of it and two adjusting nuts. The way to adjust this rod is put shift lever and transmission in neutral then adjust the nuts so there is no free play in linkage. Try different adjustments to this rod because the first try may not fix the problem. It is possible a small free play may work for you. Hope this fixes the problem.
  5. You need to buy a shop or service manual for your car. Go on internet and search for shop or maintenance book for the year car you have. There are a number of places that sell this including ebay. The cost is around $45.00 and if you plan on working on your car it is necessary to have this book.
  6. You are correct. It may be possible to install the rubber without loosening the front fender. Try it and see. If you loosen the front fender there are 2 or 3 nuts behind the kick panel, one nut behind the trim below the door and one nut above in the engine area to deal with. It is possible to break any of these studs during removal. When I did the install the front fenders were not attached.
  7. The seal talked about is the one that goes on the A pillar under the rear of the front fender and the front edge of the front door. The original seal was secured to a metal strip that is held in place with 4 or 5 screws. I made a seal that seems to work using two pieces of rubber in order to make it thick enough. Maybe the second piece of rubber was not needed. The main rubber with the two humps used I think was bought from Steele Rubber and is used as a rear hood seal on either a Chevy or International Harvester truck. The rubber was attached to the metal strip. Using a thin double stick back rubber both rubbers could be mounted too the metal. The rubber on the left is the original molding. The new rubber will need to be cut on each end. Hope this helps.
  8. Check with Neil Riddle in Seattle. Get number from vender section of this site.
  9. A tool that can help is the Dremel with cutoff disks. If you do not have one, get one today and you will not regret it if you are working on cars. The cut off disks do not always work fast especially on thick metal but they do a great job.
  10. Lots of things you can do If you have lots of money. It is usually cheaper to find a car that is like what you like and buy it rather than building it or having some one build it. There are a few Mopar Magazines on the market that should have lots of info on mods you can make to your car. Read these to figure out what will do the job for you. This site deals with cars 35 years older than your car.
  11. Do you have a service manual? Do not recall having any problem with the rubber seal or dust cover.
  12. You are looking for the metal sill plate which would be under the rubber door sill cover. The rubber sill covers can be had for a lot of cash from Steele Rubber. Can you make a sheet of metal to replace or repair the metal area? There is a place named Kemp's Rod and Restoration, Inc. that in the past has made some of the parts Plymouth Doctor sells. One number I have is 906-482-5656.
  13. If the bumpers on the car are ribbed and not smooth, the car is a 49. There are lots of other differences but the bumpers are unique on the 49.
  14. The door sills used are hard find in good or fair condition. If yours are altogether and attached, you can make them look better. On my car I removed all dirt and other stuff on the sills then painted them with black paint for plastics that I got from the local O'Rilley parts store. The paint can may have said gloss but the finished product was more like satin and looked new. Neil Riddle may have the rocker trim for your car. The trim can be repaired if you have it.
  15. By stock OD I guess you mean the Borg Warner R10 that came out in 1952. This was also used by Ford, Studebaker and some other makers. Some like going to a 5 speed trans that provide the OD. There has been a company that makes a OD gear box that is mounted behind the 3 speed trans that has a shift lever. These units have been used on 30s cars like a Model A to give OD gearing.