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About HawkHero

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 27

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  • Location
    Reno, NV
  1. Good morning from Reno, NV, Jorge. Hope things south of the equator are going well. For you particular manual, page 205 is where the shift linkage adjustment details are. The title may say "Transmission - Overdrive" but it covers both overdrive and standard three speed without overdrive. To help orient yourself to the linkage rods, run the car through its gears and you should see how the levers on the transmission are acutated to allow shifting into R/1 and 2/3. I know the pictures in the reprinted manuals can be a bit grainy, so the adjustment graphic is showing the steering column and the shift linkage that connects at the steering column. Good luck!! --Brian
  2. Nice find! Looks like a keeper. --Brian
  3. Thank you, BigAdams. This is exactly what I was looking for!
  4. OD typically shows up for $1200, but there was one guy who had one on there for a long time for $2750 and I think this dude saw that listing and went for the same. There's a LOT of stuff being offered that you usually don't see but the prices are a bit high. I'm content to sit back and wait for him to drop the price or keep looking.
  5. Anyone else notice there's a seller selling a whole bunch of parts? He's asking a pretty penny but has been slashing prices the past day or so. He has not one, but two OD transmissions for under $3,000. Sounds like he inherited what he has or is just offloading what he has collected over the years. --Brian
  6. I seem to recall that there were some Plymouths built with dodge panels at one point. Suntennis or JD52 might remember better than I, but I could swear there was a member of the site with a 50s Plymouth that was a rebadged Dodge. The 48 and 49 Plymouths also looked entirely different on the outside. --Brian
  7. There are a lot of factors that affect value on these old cars. Condition of paint, body, interior, drive train, and so on can affect the desirability. --Brian
  8. I just roll start. Lots of hills in NV. Even did it rolling backwards down a hill once. The wife was not amused. Couldn't turn the car around first as it was, *ahem* a one-way street known a an interstate. -- Brian
  9. Have you checked the fluid levels?
  10. I have a clutch assembly that will fit 218 or 230. PM me if interested. Great looking ride!! --Brian
  11. Did Plymouth/Mopar ever offer a tool kit for our cars? I know a lot of European manufacturers offered tool kits for the trunk and have seen sellers on ebay offering various "kits" which really seem to be nothing more than collections of old hand tools.So far as I can tell, my car came to me with the original jack, base, lug wrench, and chock that was sold with the car. Pictures would be great if available. Thanks!! --Brian
  12. I have also used Champions in many vehicles without issue. For some reason, the set I had for my 230 weren't cutting it but the Autolites did just fine. I'm not sure if it's the 6v system or if it was a poor quality batch of plugs.
  13. Hi, 51; It did run but I knew at the time that the rings were already worn pretty well and the cylinders were already 0.080" over so I made the decision to run the engine until it died then drop in a new one. When the engine died suddenly last summer (I was expecting the replace it as a winter project) and I was finally able to take stock of the full situation, I discovered some major issues. 1. The wiring was fine, I had replaced all of it while restoring the car. 2. The cylinders had worn themselves to about 0.095" over and the ring gaps were enormous, which probably explains the hissing I thought was piston failure. 3. The Champion spark plugs I used were garbage 4. The stock fuel pump was putting out 14-20 PSI and flooding the engine, which explains a lot of low end issues I had. 5. The distributor was not achieving a consistent ground for some reason. To fix all the issues, I used AutoLite spark plugs, added a fuel regulator on the fender skirt, installed a stock carb and choke, and added a bonding strap for the distributor. I also discovered that while I thought piston failure was the reason the engine died, it was in fact a broken bonding strap on the points. If I could recommend one tool everyone carry in their classic car, it's a spark tester. Had I used one when I first had my issue on the road, I likely would have focused on the distributor instead of scrapping the engine. I will probably give the Pertronix another go at some point, but things are running beautifully right now. --Brian
  14. I tried the Pertronix and couldn't get it to work due to I think some other engine issues I had. Most guys swear by it and love it. Summit Racing sells them for about $100 or so. --Brian
  15. A lot of people have done that. As my high school shop teacher always said, "Where there's a blowtorch there's a way" What you will probably end up doing is welding scab plates to the frame and the new mounts to those. Unless you do a rear end swap, you'll also need to have a coupling made for the differential for a spicer type driveshaft joint. Lot of work? Yes. Worth it? Depends on what you want the outcome to be. The stock engine and drivetrain is reliable and fun to drive around town. It's your car, your canvas. --Brian