Jump to content


Contributing Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jd52cranbrook

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/11/1950

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newark, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

4,701 profile views
  1. Heater core 1935

    Try these guys; http://www.oldmoparts.com/ http://1935plymouth.com/
  2. Last call

    Yeah, sorry, will get to it soon.
  3. Last call

    Just kind of wanted to put this out before I actually take a video of the extra parts I have. I know I have something someone will want. I have tried to sell them in the past to no avail. This time I am going to lay them out on a table and film them. Will post on here, and ship the whole table's worth to anyone who will pay the shipping cost. I don't want to piece meal them out, don't really want to answer a lot of questions about what I have. Keep in mind all these parts would fit my 52. I really don't want to junk them, but I need room, and far less clutter at my shop. Some parts I have had for 10 years or so. I just could not bring myself to get rid of them, as I know as soon I junk them, I, or someone else will need a part. Stay tuned.
  4. introduction

    Some of those bolts go into the water jacket. So not a bad idea to put some sealant on them. Be careful, I hate snakes.
  5. motor mounts

    Your going to find most things ae made in China now, or at least overseas. And al the motor mounts I have seen are firm and dense rubber, but do not vibrate. Some have a metal tube sleeve for the bolt holes are. Perhaps they are too tight and bottoming out metal to meta? These "junk parts" have been on the market for 50 years or so. You will be hard pressed to find much of anything American made anymore. Even car lifts say American made, but it you look you will see the steel is imported. I purchased one with American steel and assembled in America, but it cost me twice as much. Which was ok at the time, because it is what I wanted. But bottom line, hard rubber is the norm, but should not transfer vibration.
  6. Cooling System

    Welcome to the forum. If you have a heater, see if it blows hot air. Also try a aftermarket gauge temporarily to see if the gauge is bad. Unfortunately sometimes the water tube that sits inside the block gets corroded and needs replacement, not a easy job but can be done. But even old radiators get blocked too. Get yourself a good manual if you want to keep the flathead, I did and very glad I did. Also a radiator recovery system would help in the long run to keep your overflow. Good luck, lots of good advice on here.
  7. Horn Ring

    And, I believe the connections to the horns could be isolated from the frame of the car, check on that.
  8. Horn Ring

    Go back to your connections at the horns. Something is loose a bit. There is only one wire from the horn button to the horns. So if one works both should. Maybe a loose ground at the horn? Horn button comes off by pressing down while turning counter clockwise 1/4 turn.
  9. 1940 Plymouth 4 Door deluxe

    Great find, enjoy the ride.
  10. If you just need that, could you not go to a locksmith? Save some dough would be my guess.
  11. ebay parts cache for 49-52 Plymouth

    Under 3,000? Inflation has really kicked in I guess. I think I bought mine, 10 years ago I admit, for under 750. Times have changed. I think I'm gonna jump on that EBay sometime.
  12. introduction

    Keep up the good work.
  13. 48 or 49

    That's a new one on me. Thanks
  14. 48 or 49

    Look on this web site for the description and pictures of the car years. 46, 47, 48 were basically all the same body shape. 49,50, 51, 52s were close to the same, but drastically different than the previous three years. Very easy to tell that difference at least.

    This guy sells adapters to put a T-5 transmission in. http://www.1935plymouth.com/