Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
rodney hamon

introduction

44 posts in this topic

So it might work this Sat. to go see this other '51 Ply parts car which is a 2 dr. Rain is forecast finally and cooler weather. No more snakes. My Cambridge is a 4 dr. but has a slightly different hood and rt. frt. fender from a similar yr. Possibly '49 or '50? Hood is seamed and the fenders have just the slightest profile not lining up with the body. Excited to see if parts are workable for exchange. No title so this is a parts car all the way.  rodney  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

success. have the parts car in my possession. took a long time looking at my last post. front clip and chassis worth it. pretty rotted/rusted out. still, misc. parts will migrate over to mine. seems disfunctional to blend a 2 dr cranbrook and 4 dr cambridge together but that is life. did manage to start pulling stubborn brake drums for temp brake repair and beginning resto. of '38 plymie rear end and then went to the '51 cambridge.  relearning brakes and just amazed that napa still has stuff.   too cold now so project will have to wait until spring. amazing...black widows alive inside the drums and wheel cylinders...sluggish they may be and i wear gloves to squish em...living out in the country is not what it is all cracked up to be.   rodney  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Between 2 storms and incredible weather for a short week I was able to get 2 spare drums off and turned at Napa. Finished first brake on '51 rear. I did not re-arc the old shoes and put them back on but did sand them a bit w/100 grit against the drum to clean off some glaze. I have a dummy drum to check alignment of the shoes and alignment was not bad. Front drums not cooperating(1 stuck and 1 clunking) so figure will pull those to see what's hanging them up. I assume fronts are easier to do than rears aside from double cylinders. Still wondering about the function of the springs wrapped around the drums. Will read up on this. I will take the chance and bleed the brakes w/o pulling the m/c. I will let that surprise me. I have to tell myself that this is a teaching car that is bringing my wrenching skills back to life. I figure in April I will remove the passenger fender so I can get to the engine easier. Many chores under the hood.    rh       

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You know the passenger inner fender well has a panel that unbolts right?  And If I am not mistaken, the driver's side has the same, although I have never removed it.  But removing the passenger side gives you access to the valve covers, etc.

Keep up the good work, keep up the documentation too. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jd52....I saw that and mine is loose/some rust probably as previous owner was sloppy in replacing fender w/not so good fender....lotta bondo on it. I will gladly unbolt all...probably use a nut buster here and there and then I can get to the exhaust manifold which is leaking and more. the engine does not have a lot of power so i need to investigate everything from timing to compression check etc. I have read some on these forums about engines not having power and then finding the issue and solving it. I learned my lesson a half year ago with my 64 1/2 mustang not starting after sitting for a period. It seems modern plug wires degrade faster than I thought. The coil wire went bad and prevented starting. A coil wire that looked perfectly fine and new! I couldn't figure that one out to save my life and that wire set from Napa was only 12 years old with little mileage on it. I don't have testing equipment and never really learned to use them. I guess that is another challenge I need to deal with. Get some kind of circuit tester for dummies!      rh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a fuel pump question if anybody could help. I have a carter #1531 mechanical fuel pump. It's design has no bowl and has a nice short profile. The lever comes out horizontal 2" from the pump body and I see the lever contact to the cam is barely half where the rub/contact spot is. I cannot find out what this pump comes off of. Seeing another discussion about headers coming down too close to the fuel pump, this makes my carter ideal. What is this mystery pump or who could rebuld it? Thank you anyone.  rh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also have another newbie question. I am starting a front brake job on the '51 Cambridge. I see wheel cylinders/hoses here and there but springs seem to be harder to find. Is there a source I can go to for new springs?  When I pulled front drums this afternoon the previous-desperate-clever owner put 2 springs together to get length but they broke. Misc size springs also to be had in the other front drum. Do folks have success w/the Napa rebuilt kits here on this forum? Seems Rockauto has decent price w/dorman cylinders. How is Dorman quality these days...good enough ?    Raybestos better ?  ...wondering what my luck will be with the mc.  lol     rh      

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks turtlell. exact length and dia. of spring illustrations/pix's from all these diff web sites can make one wonder. I will look at A.B. site and contact.   rh   

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In relearning brakes I have discovered the insanity of previous owners mismatching parts. Today my brain turned off when taking apart upper wheel cylinders and discovering odd pistons, springs, and cups. No two alike. Guess I am buying new cylinders instead of trying to rebuild as I don't trust myself with the goofy. It has been a test of patience to dislodge the rusted pistons out of the housings for sure. I like to give Napa my business but they only had new lowers and rebuilt kits for the uppers. Andy or Rock A. here I come. I do love how you can take the backing platse w/ all the stuff attached-loose into the garage/work bench to work though. Wind-juniper pollen is nasty outside now and makes me ill. Next I know I need to pull the mc.    guess i'm venting.    r   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello everyone. A question about M.C.'s  I removed the Wagner master cylinder from my '51 Cambridge and the pedal shaft is frozen stuck inorder to put into the Napa rebuilt. Is this common? I am going to Napa and ask it their machine shop can press it out. Bore size is slightly diff between original and rebuilt but not bad...the shaft would slide in easily into the new MC. Was just wondering if age and rust froze the pedal shaft or were the originals pressed in.  Anybody know?  Reading in Motor's Repair Manual and a P-15 shop manual I see no info. Someday I will locate a P-23 shop manual. LOL. On a side note I tracked down my mystery '49 Carter fuel pump by calling Carter Corp. They were very helpful and identified it as an obsolete general style made '49-'53 and is a M 847. It fits my D-30. Then & Now Automotive has rebuilt kits for them still. I am interested in this slim profile fuel pump because of discussion over on P15 D24 regarding Langdon headers getting too close to fuel pumps with the glass bowls. Then I see they have a new 2 barrel with adaptor for the intake. I was interested in AoK's version of dual carb/exhaust set-up but this has me thinking. Would be a lot cheaper for that custom look. Anybody put a progressive 2 barrel on a 230? My dad always said that was too much air for not enuf cubic inch.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Machine shop pressed out the pedal shaft.....I laughed when I took the removable floor pan out to remove the mc and took the twist tie off the gas pedal linkage instead of a cotter or clevis pin. P.O.'s are either resourceful or lame. In this case I have seen mucho lame. I am enjoying putting things back together the right way. Just turning the drums and putting correct springs back in made me feel better.      r 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

replying to myself but i think it's therapy. while replacing the water pump today on the D30 I was horrified to see how the front of the distribution tube and the back of the old waterpump were blocked with calcified crud. cleaned the front of block and tube opening and all is good. started to bolt on the water pump and discover the housing is thicker and my original bolts are too short to thread into block...all the while with fresh blue gasket sealer. scrambled to find longer bolts. yikes. waterpump is from rock auto and mc from napa and both are different than original. so this is the future of restoration, huh ? half sae/half metric... boy how i miss the '70's when  part stores had the real replacements. add to this all... the addition of an 8 volt battery. my dad bought this battery for me 15 yrs ago and wanted me to use it. he used them in his time. my dad was the head mechanic in the motor pool in the army air corp end of WWII on guam. all mopar then. he grew up on a ranch during the depression as a kid and the family had a '36 dodge pu. after the war he drove plymouths in the early '50's. back to the battery....the battery was never used since he bought it. i took it to the battery store (morco) last week and asked if it could be revived and they charged it and it held but couldn't tell me what load it could carry. anyway i was going to use it for starting and have it as a back up... since it was free. i was researching 8 volt batteries and it brings up quite the commentary.. man, some folk have strong opinions but i like all the opinions on how to charge one. the battery store said i should find an 8 volt charger. i think i will stick to 6 volt for running  purposes as it is less hassle. anyway...i plug away at both projects slowly but surely and i think i will remove the waterpump from the cambridge to clean/replace just because the D30 spooked me!      r  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on the subject of mc's and chinese replacement bore size for pedal shaft...i went to friend's printing press machine shop and they had thin stainless steel sheets for shimming/measuring tolerances.  .001, .002 etc.   they obtain from MSC metalworking and another source.    worked perfect. i now have a bushing that will accept the pedal shaft w/o rocking. buddies recommended using loctite to secure the thin sheet bushing in the bore hole and then slide the shaft in with a little grease for a good fit. then a friend who restores vw's said he uses soft drink can aluminum as a shim/ sleeve. lol...i work too hard.       rh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

brakes are done on the '51. good enough to drive around the property as the goal. removed the front passenger fender and other stuff to expose the intake/exhaust assembly for removal. so much easier to get to w/o fender. installed the missing hood/hinge assembly on the driver side that i robbed off the parts car. that was a pain. hood provides shade for sure. bolts/nuts soaked in liquid wrench for 3 days w/gentle tapping on the nuts to help loosen grip on rust. need to replace gaskets and just clean. going to remove radiator and flush, then pull water pump to see if distribution tube is blocked. i am constantly humbled. the hinge and spring humbled me. removing body parts w/ the bolts and screws also humbled me. only had to use the nut buster once inside the door pillar and twisted off just 2 bolts on everything which i think is pretty good. and... i do this all w/one eye on the wrenching and one eye looking for snakes. only 2 gopher and one bull snake so far. the bull snake came practically to my leg while installing rear brake. startled me for sure. i was vigilant as hell after bleeding brakes lookin for the first rattler. last weekend i went to daughters' softball tournament in ruidoso and next to field is a lonely P-23 looking in good shape body wise but no glass. i couldn't see the front end though. it's a sickness figuring out how to get it/haul it home a few hundred miles away. maybe it is another mopar lover's part car. i laugh at myself and i am still a newbie. i tell myself it was probably a dodge and was projecting onto it. got the D-30 engine to run after sitting 29 yrs. runs amazingly smooth and surprised me but it smokes something horrible. will have to remove manifolds on that as well to steam clean. i still don't understand the oil pooling inside the intake under the carb but all those yrs of pouring m.mystery. oil down the spark plug holes and then turning the engine over must have contributed to that.         r     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with JD52 and enjoy reading your progress and thoughts on that.

I hope you get to post some more photos as you go along.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0