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About suntennis

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    Scottsdale, Arizona

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  1. Carburetor leaking fuel with carbon fouled plugs

    Some things that could cause some of your problems are the following. Hard starting could be from choke not adjusted correctly, low fuel level in the carb and float level not correctly adjusted. These are just carb issues only but electrical problems can also cause starting problems. If the car sets for any length of time such as more than a few days, fuel will evaporate from the carb and it will take some cranking of engine to get fuel pumped into the carb to the proper level. One fix for this issue is install a electric fuel pump and turn it on prior to start to fill up carb. I do this and after running the electric pump for 15 seconds and pumping the gas pedal, the car starts easy. If your car has sat for a few months, maybe the accelerator pump in the carb has dried up and is not working correctly. It is possible your mechanical fuel pump is not putting out enough fuel. Hope this helps.
  2. 1949 Plymouth fluids

    Cooling fluid I use half anti freeze and half distilled water. Engine oil use a good grade of 30 or 40 weight. Gear oil use a 90 weight gear oil. For the steering box I use a super thick oil that is almost like honey and can be found at most auto parts stores. This heavy oil should reduce or prevent leakage out of steering box. If engine has not been run after 12 years, it would be good to remove spark plugs, spray some oil in cylinders and spin the engine over a few time before replacing the plugs and trying to start it.
  3. Trunk Lock cylinder replacement

    Great info. Too bad such tips were not put in the service manual.
  4. Trunk Lock cylinder replacement

    I think I filed down the center of the indentation. You could use a round file to do the job. A screw driver may work but you should also try channel lock type pliers and rotate the securing ring. Some folks have success with just the pliers rotating the ring less than 90 degrees. Not necessary to file away all the metal on the ring in the depressed area.
  5. Oh yeah I forgot to ask

    1954 is P25, 1953 is P24, 1951 and 1952, P22 is Concord, P23 is Cambridge and Cranbrook
  6. Stainless trim

    Check vendors area on this site for Neil Riddle. Neil should be able to help you.
  7. paint

    3M puts out what I think is a good filter which is popular and does a good job. I got mine at Home Depot for around $40. Ace Hardware also sells them. They seal well, not too expensive and you can get replacement filter pads for them. This filter has two straps and a filter pad on each side.
  8. carburetor with manual choke

    Mopar cars in the 60s used a 6 volt coil but had a 12 volt electric system. For these cars they had a resister about 3 inches long mounted on the fire wall. The output of the resister went to the coil. I would think many auto part stores would still sell these because they would fail over the years. Power to the electric choke as you probably know is only applied when the starter is used. You may not even need a choke due to what I guess is mild climate. Many have found that using a electric fuel pump to prime the carb helps for faster starting especially when the car has set for some time. Nice car.
  9. carburetor with manual choke

    On the electric choke you should be able to use it with a in-line resister. Many cars in the 60s and later have a resister for the coil wire to step it down from 12 to 6 volts. Pouring gas into the carb is not fuel injection and there is risk of fire when doing it.
  10. 1952 Plymouth Gear Shift Knob

    The emergency brake handle is different than the shift lever in that there is metal under the plastic. One fix for this handle would be to use JB Weld to form a new handle over the metal then paint to match the steering wheel. Another fix would be to replace the 52 handle assembly with a 51 assembly which has a chrome metal handle.
  11. Hard time getting car into 1st gear

    The adjustments to the shift linkage are fairly simple. One adjustment only is for adjusting the position of the shift lever on the steering column and this is adjusted at the bracket on the shift arm that has a slot in it. The other adjustment is only for shifting the gears in the transmission and it on the rod from the transmission that has a spring at the end of it and two adjusting nuts. The way to adjust this rod is put shift lever and transmission in neutral then adjust the nuts so there is no free play in linkage. Try different adjustments to this rod because the first try may not fix the problem. It is possible a small free play may work for you. Hope this fixes the problem.
  12. Hard time getting car into 1st gear

    You need to buy a shop or service manual for your car. Go on internet and search for shop or maintenance book for the year car you have. There are a number of places that sell this including ebay. The cost is around $45.00 and if you plan on working on your car it is necessary to have this book.
  13. Doorseal Rubber

    You are correct. It may be possible to install the rubber without loosening the front fender. Try it and see. If you loosen the front fender there are 2 or 3 nuts behind the kick panel, one nut behind the trim below the door and one nut above in the engine area to deal with. It is possible to break any of these studs during removal. When I did the install the front fenders were not attached.
  14. Doorseal Rubber

    The seal talked about is the one that goes on the A pillar under the rear of the front fender and the front edge of the front door. The original seal was secured to a metal strip that is held in place with 4 or 5 screws. I made a seal that seems to work using two pieces of rubber in order to make it thick enough. Maybe the second piece of rubber was not needed. The main rubber with the two humps used I think was bought from Steele Rubber and is used as a rear hood seal on either a Chevy or International Harvester truck. The rubber was attached to the metal strip. Using a thin double stick back rubber both rubbers could be mounted too the metal. The rubber on the left is the original molding. The new rubber will need to be cut on each end. Hope this helps.

    Check with Neil Riddle in Seattle. Get number from vender section of this site.