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Steve@OldPlymouths

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About Steve@OldPlymouths

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  1. introduction

    An extra gasket might help, or some hi-temp sealer, as you mentioned. Maybe the angle of the two flanges is off.
  2. Carburetor leaking fuel with carbon fouled plugs

    A carb overhaul is probably necessary as a first step in fixing the problems. You might buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself, or find a local shop with experience, or send it out. I used an outfit called Recarbco, I think on the West Coast. I haven't checked on them recently. They did all right for me on a '50 and a '53, one car in about 2001 and the other a few years ago. The rebuilt carbs improved the running of both engines.
  3. introduction

    If the manifold heat control does not work, I would set it permanently in the valve closed (warm engine) position. My '53 is set that way, and it starts fine. The auto choke is effective if the unit is good and it is set correctly. Both are covered in the service manual.
  4. newbie from honolulu hawaii-55 belvedere 2dr

    Welcome to the forum. I can't comment on your question about the Powerflite and the rear, since customizing is not my thing, but maybe someone else will be able to.
  5. Stainless trim

    Contact Dan Dietrich in PA, 610-756-6071. He deals in "Mouldings NOS 1941 to 1978". I have talked to him at shows—he asked if I needed anything for my '50.
  6. Hard time getting car into 1st gear

    I looked it up in the manual. It says, "Restricted travel of the shifter linkage is the most common cause of slipping out of gear". Another paragraph covers slipping out of low and reverse specifically. It talks about excessive wear in the transmission or excessive end play in the countershaft gear—not something I have had to deal with. Try looking at the shift linkage to see if it is failing to get the car fully into first gear.
  7. Wide Whites

    I use Wide White Whitewall Tire Cleaner which is made for Coker Tire. I bought it at a car show, but it is sold by Summit Racing and other sources. price is about $6.95. There is no need to use an abrasive pad with it. Maybe just a brush and cloth.
  8. 1953 trunk script wanted

    I am looking for the trunk script "Plymouth" in good condition, not pitted, complete with all three posts.
  9. Wax for original paint

    A good quality wax from Meguiars or Griot's Garage would probably be safe. I would avoid a product with an abrasive polishing agent in it.
  10. transmission problem

    Thanks for your response. You're probably right about the linkage. You mentioned two items on your Hy-Drive that are a problem. The parts book shows that the 53-54 Hy-Drive throwout (called bearing, w/sleeve) is part number 1484 309. The standard item for other 41-54 Plymouths is part number 862 859. In the parts book illustration, the sleeves look to be of different lengths. The adjustment of the clutch return spring for the Hy-Drive is covered on page 21 of the short manual "Plymouth Hy-Drive". This manual is readily available from online sources and is not expensive. I have found it a great help.
  11. transmission problem

    The clutch disc does not have the small springs because there is no feathering of the clutch needed, and no chatter, as the driver lets it out. The torque converter absorbs any vibrations. As I said, I will be changing the transmission gear oil again. I am interested to know what gear oil other members use, compared to the 85W90 Hypoid, API GL-4GL-4 I mentioned yesterday.
  12. transmission problem

    The Hy-Drive cars have a transmission and clutch, but with a torque converter added to the driveline. You can drive all the time in 3rd gear if you want to, and you don't push in the clutch even when stopped at an intersection. The torque converter slips then like any automatic. If you want to select 2nd, 1st, or reverse, you have to push in the clutch pedal before moving the column shift lever. The engine and the torque converter share 10 quarts of engine oil. The engine oil pump provides motor oil under pressure to the engine and the torque converter. The transmission has gear oil in it just like the standard shift cars. I don't mean to lecture, as I'm no expert. It helps to spend time driving one of these cars to get the feel of how it works. The torque converter that was in the car when I bought it failed due to a pressure leak. We replaced it with a good one from a donor car. It just seems odd to me that the shifting became harder after the transmission warmed up. I would have thought it would shift more easily with warm gear oil in it, not harder.
  13. transmission problem

    This is an update on the problem I’ve had shifting gears in the ‘53 convertible. Things have improved, but I’m not quite there yet. I removed the adjustable linkage at the transmission and by hand moved the “range selector” lever (1st/reverse vs. 2nd/3rd) on the side of the transmission. This gave me a sense of where to set the adjusting nut. Shifting in the garage has been easy with the engine stopped or running. I took a 20 mile ride in 70 degree weather yesterday. The shifting was easy for the whole trip, except near the end, when it became harder to shift into any gear. The only thing I can think of is that the transmission oil would have been thoroughly warmed up, and maybe it flowed like thinner oil. The transmission oil level is ok. I changed the oil once since I bought the car. I used Sta-Lube Gear Oil, 85W90 Hypoid, API GL-4. I am thing of changing the gear oil again.
  14. Where is a good reasonable place to look for a 1950 4 door Plymouth headliner and floor mat

     

  15. transmission problem

    The transmission oil level is ok, and I recently changed the oil, which is shared by the engine and the torque converter. I did some more checking tonight, and here is what I found. Shifting was still good with the car up on the stands. Then I noticed that the shift rod that comes along the steering column up to the driver's position was off center in the bracket under the dash. I loosened the clamp on the steering column jacket and rotated it to center the rod, but then I lost reverse. I loosened the steering column jacket again, rotated it so the rod was where it was before, and I got reverse back. The steering column jacket carries the mounting pin for the linkage that selects the range, that is, 1st/reverse vs. 2nd/3rd. You can see the mechanism move up the steering column when you pull the shift lever toward you. Apparently it was binding after the steering column jacket was moved. It shows that something can move and the linkage will bind. I don't what the cure is here, but I need to find out what flexes when the car is back down on the tires, causing binding or reduced motion in the shift linkage. Any ideas on an approach would be appreciated.
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