Jump to content

rodney hamon

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rodney hamon

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

697 profile views
  1. introduction

    I snaked the exhaust pipe out yesterday and rechecked the pipe connection to its' flange and discovered burn-out area that was not noticed before. Explains noise and air. I go to the muffler shop tomorrow to have a replacement made. I will ask about doubling gaskets up and sealers as that flange is rather rough. Exhaust manifold flange is in great shape. Thanks for the reply! rh
  2. introduction

    before this forum closes i have another question. i have a good exhaust leak where the exhaust pipe hooks to manifold. both flanges are clean and i put a new gasket on but i still feel air blown from the connection, and sound. does doubling up the gaskets work? bolts are tight. a sealer between the 2 gaskets ? rodney
  3. introduction

    the P-23 started ! it was the condenser and bad grounds in the dist. used a new napa condenser. reading a lot of other owner's issues here and on P15 D24 and the HAMB, i traced the problem. engine oil poured out of the oil filter housing top and bottom. fittings loose on oil line and lid not tight. good sign i have oil pressure! ammeter on the pos. side even at low idle. blew out a big mouse nest out of the exhaust pipe and smelled nasty bar-b-q so turned the car off lol i will miss telling my tales on this forum as i think some get a chuckle out of it. will be fun to finally take the car off the blocks this weekend and drive it around the property and test the brakes. a samsonite chair is my front seat as the car is gutted. fun. next spring i plan on cutting out the cancer in the floor pans and welding in new steel. next spring i work on the cooling system and pull the distribution tube. then...put 2 cars better together from the donor parts car. r
  4. Time to say goodbye....

    As a newbie, I have tremendously enjoyed being part of this forum. It has given me courage to purchase an abandoned P-23 and bring it back to life. There is so much info still to garnish from the archives. Will all this knowledge disappear or will there be a way to retrieve it in the future? What I enjoyed the most about this forum were that the members were all very nice to each other! rodney
  5. introduction

    Correction ! Horn relay, my mistake! After cleaning the relay unit I saw markings indicating Horn, ign, bat, grnd. napa does not have a relay so i will reroute. r
  6. introduction

    The P-23 will not start. I have gas, it squirts in the carb. I have new battery, new cables. I put everything back that I removed better than ever. Cleaner than ever. There is no spark from the coil. I am dumbfounded. I switched out coils. I switched out a couple different condensers. I switched coil wires. I removed the dist thinking it was 180 out. At that point I was not thinking correct. The wiring harness in this car is half removed or garbaged from previous owners. I went into my service manual and the Motor's manual to check wiring diagrams and troubleshooting. I am wondering if the light relay sw. went bad where the dist and ign wire junction on the firewall. Anybody have thoughts on this as a possible cause for no spark? Could the ammeter add to this? It was working before. When I bought the car the p.owner had the battery backwards. I immediately switched the cables when i got the car home and saw the ammeter charging +. So, on my way to work tomorrow I will see if Napa has a universal relay switch and condensers. I have garnished the technical archives here and P-15 D-24 to see what others have said about no spark. I am wondering if I can by-pass the relay sw and ammeter to get spark. I do not have test equip and diagnosing wiring has been my weakness all these years. It probably is time to move this subject to another discussion topic. Right? rodney
  7. introduction

    Agreed as I briefly looked at the auto choke section in the manual...and will play w/the heat control valve position. i marked it before installing. I was so disgusted how dirty the engine was after removing the generator and the bracket, I removed the oil stand pipe, dist, and starter and started to scrape yrs of oil/dirt off side off block....carefully covering openings i scraped and wire brushed w/ a drill. i saw some silver paint! cleaned the filler pipe/cap, dist, points look good, new lead wire, and separated the starter to clean later this week. it is filthy. 66 yrs of n.m. grime under the hood. it's what probably preserved the engine compartment from disintegration. r
  8. introduction

    Since last posting I finished installing the manifolds and cleaned carb. and wondered if it was worth separating the manifolds to put that center gasket in as 3 bolts snapped off. Had to drill/tap 2 holes for that and one stud holding the auto choke which was garbage. I scrounged another good one for replacement. Do those things really work? I am used to manual chokes. After tightening down I dropped favorite 9/16 wrench down the exhaust pipe. lol. How many times did I tell myself to put a rag in it so that would not happen. I snaked that long exhaust pipe out over the rear end toward the front. Shook it upside down and got my faive open end wrench back. Killed a rattlesnake by the front bumper. Took a break. Snaked (pun) the exhaust pipe back under and bolted up and it is a fine job. Laughed when I changed the oil and discovered the Napa gold oil cartridge is the same as a mercedes 220. Laughed when I discovered a 1/2 in. drive can undue the gas tank drain valve. Did not laugh at the smell of 4.5 gal. old gas in the gas tank when draining. It stunk for days on end. I was pleased to see that Napa has nylon gaskets for that drain plug. I am in the process of cleaning general stuff under the hood to get ready to start the car as it has not been started in over a year. Cleaned the generator and will remove and clean starter/dist next. I am vigilant for snakes still. The spark plugs are autolite 306 and i need to check if that is correct for a P-23. I do not have the patience to pull the water pump now but it seems to spin freely. I will take a chance on that one and work on cooling system if need be next spring. Do have new hoses and noticed the lower hose was collapsed and that may have caused heat gauge to run hotter but will be vigilant. r
  9. introduction

    Thought I would share this. I leave on vacation Mon. and thought I would lightly bolt the manifold back onto the engine so mice would not set up a hotel in the ports. I spent a lot of time cleaning manifold and engine surfaces to install new gaskets. Both mated surfaces look good now. It took a lot of scraper blading, electric drill wire brushing, 220 emory sand paper, some PB blaster, and elbow grease. So I'm ready to just put this thing on and DAMN....I reach down and a teenage bull snake is laying on the chassis right there. I just about crapped and almost knocked my head on the hood. Damn. Then it slithers over the bell housing and is somewhere in there under the floor board. Well, I gotta put that manifold on but I sure dropped a lot of washers and bolts being spooked by any movement. Got it on. Now I can leave in peace for 2 weeks. I can't remember, do you have to put a little permatex on the gaskets before bolting on? Will research that when I get back. I'm thinking, there was a snake skeleton spread out in the back seat top of the springs when I got this car. This car is a snake magnet. Time for coffee as my heart rate has calmed. rodney
  10. introduction

    brakes are done on the '51. good enough to drive around the property as the goal. removed the front passenger fender and other stuff to expose the intake/exhaust assembly for removal. so much easier to get to w/o fender. installed the missing hood/hinge assembly on the driver side that i robbed off the parts car. that was a pain. hood provides shade for sure. bolts/nuts soaked in liquid wrench for 3 days w/gentle tapping on the nuts to help loosen grip on rust. need to replace gaskets and just clean. going to remove radiator and flush, then pull water pump to see if distribution tube is blocked. i am constantly humbled. the hinge and spring humbled me. removing body parts w/ the bolts and screws also humbled me. only had to use the nut buster once inside the door pillar and twisted off just 2 bolts on everything which i think is pretty good. and... i do this all w/one eye on the wrenching and one eye looking for snakes. only 2 gopher and one bull snake so far. the bull snake came practically to my leg while installing rear brake. startled me for sure. i was vigilant as hell after bleeding brakes lookin for the first rattler. last weekend i went to daughters' softball tournament in ruidoso and next to field is a lonely P-23 looking in good shape body wise but no glass. i couldn't see the front end though. it's a sickness figuring out how to get it/haul it home a few hundred miles away. maybe it is another mopar lover's part car. i laugh at myself and i am still a newbie. i tell myself it was probably a dodge and was projecting onto it. got the D-30 engine to run after sitting 29 yrs. runs amazingly smooth and surprised me but it smokes something horrible. will have to remove manifolds on that as well to steam clean. i still don't understand the oil pooling inside the intake under the carb but all those yrs of pouring m.mystery. oil down the spark plug holes and then turning the engine over must have contributed to that. r
  11. introduction

    on the subject of mc's and chinese replacement bore size for pedal shaft...i went to friend's printing press machine shop and they had thin stainless steel sheets for shimming/measuring tolerances. .001, .002 etc. they obtain from MSC metalworking and another source. worked perfect. i now have a bushing that will accept the pedal shaft w/o rocking. buddies recommended using loctite to secure the thin sheet bushing in the bore hole and then slide the shaft in with a little grease for a good fit. then a friend who restores vw's said he uses soft drink can aluminum as a shim/ sleeve. lol...i work too hard. rh
  12. introduction

    replying to myself but i think it's therapy. while replacing the water pump today on the D30 I was horrified to see how the front of the distribution tube and the back of the old waterpump were blocked with calcified crud. cleaned the front of block and tube opening and all is good. started to bolt on the water pump and discover the housing is thicker and my original bolts are too short to thread into block...all the while with fresh blue gasket sealer. scrambled to find longer bolts. yikes. waterpump is from rock auto and mc from napa and both are different than original. so this is the future of restoration, huh ? half sae/half metric... boy how i miss the '70's when part stores had the real replacements. add to this all... the addition of an 8 volt battery. my dad bought this battery for me 15 yrs ago and wanted me to use it. he used them in his time. my dad was the head mechanic in the motor pool in the army air corp end of WWII on guam. all mopar then. he grew up on a ranch during the depression as a kid and the family had a '36 dodge pu. after the war he drove plymouths in the early '50's. back to the battery....the battery was never used since he bought it. i took it to the battery store (morco) last week and asked if it could be revived and they charged it and it held but couldn't tell me what load it could carry. anyway i was going to use it for starting and have it as a back up... since it was free. i was researching 8 volt batteries and it brings up quite the commentary.. man, some folk have strong opinions but i like all the opinions on how to charge one. the battery store said i should find an 8 volt charger. i think i will stick to 6 volt for running purposes as it is less hassle. anyway...i plug away at both projects slowly but surely and i think i will remove the waterpump from the cambridge to clean/replace just because the D30 spooked me! r
  13. introduction

    Machine shop pressed out the pedal shaft.....I laughed when I took the removable floor pan out to remove the mc and took the twist tie off the gas pedal linkage instead of a cotter or clevis pin. P.O.'s are either resourceful or lame. In this case I have seen mucho lame. I am enjoying putting things back together the right way. Just turning the drums and putting correct springs back in made me feel better. r
  14. introduction

    Hello everyone. A question about M.C.'s I removed the Wagner master cylinder from my '51 Cambridge and the pedal shaft is frozen stuck inorder to put into the Napa rebuilt. Is this common? I am going to Napa and ask it their machine shop can press it out. Bore size is slightly diff between original and rebuilt but not bad...the shaft would slide in easily into the new MC. Was just wondering if age and rust froze the pedal shaft or were the originals pressed in. Anybody know? Reading in Motor's Repair Manual and a P-15 shop manual I see no info. Someday I will locate a P-23 shop manual. LOL. On a side note I tracked down my mystery '49 Carter fuel pump by calling Carter Corp. They were very helpful and identified it as an obsolete general style made '49-'53 and is a M 847. It fits my D-30. Then & Now Automotive has rebuilt kits for them still. I am interested in this slim profile fuel pump because of discussion over on P15 D24 regarding Langdon headers getting too close to fuel pumps with the glass bowls. Then I see they have a new 2 barrel with adaptor for the intake. I was interested in AoK's version of dual carb/exhaust set-up but this has me thinking. Would be a lot cheaper for that custom look. Anybody put a progressive 2 barrel on a 230? My dad always said that was too much air for not enuf cubic inch.
  15. introduction

    In relearning brakes I have discovered the insanity of previous owners mismatching parts. Today my brain turned off when taking apart upper wheel cylinders and discovering odd pistons, springs, and cups. No two alike. Guess I am buying new cylinders instead of trying to rebuild as I don't trust myself with the goofy. It has been a test of patience to dislodge the rusted pistons out of the housings for sure. I like to give Napa my business but they only had new lowers and rebuilt kits for the uppers. Andy or Rock A. here I come. I do love how you can take the backing platse w/ all the stuff attached-loose into the garage/work bench to work though. Wind-juniper pollen is nasty outside now and makes me ill. Next I know I need to pull the mc. guess i'm venting. r